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Chicken Coop Design
You'll need
- A. Frame uprights (6) 2x4 x 48 inches pine
- B. Narrow ties (2) 1x4 x 25 inches pine
- B1. Wide ties (1) 1x4 x 25 inches pine
- C. End panels (2) 25 inches x 25 inches x 1/4 inch plywood
- D. Gussets (2) 12.2 inches x 10.4 inches x 1/4 inch plywood
- E. Ridge 1x4 x 74 inches pine
- F. Bottom plates (2) 2x4 x 6 feet pine
- I. Handles (2) 2x4 x 8 feet pine
- J. Box slats (16) 1x4 x 15 inches pine - 5 top, 11 bottom
- L. Bottom end rails (3) 2x4 x 48 inches pine
- M. Top plywood door stiles (2) 1x2 x 20.5 inches pine
- N. Top plywood door rails (2) 1x2 x 11.5 inches pine
- O. Top plywood door panel 20.5 inches x 15 inches x 1/4 inch plywood
- P. Bottom plywood door stiles (2) 1x2 x 24 inches pine
- Q. Bottom plywood door rails (2) 1x2 x 11.5 inches pine
- R. Bottom plywood door panel 24 inches x 15 inches x 1/4 inch plywood
- S. Large mesh door mullion 1x4 x 13.5 inches pine
- T. Large mesh door stiles (2) 1x4 x 20.5 inches pine
- U. Large mesh door rails (2) 1x4 x 49? inches pine
- V. Hinge blocks (6) 1x2 x 3.5 inches pine
- X. Perch (not shown) 1x4 x 44 inches pine
You'll also need:
- 10m x 48 inches of galvanised 25 x 25 x 1.25mm welded mesh
- galvanised staples or U nails
- 2 x T-hinges
- 6 x 50mm strap hinges
- 4 latches
- feeder, water dispenser, paint
STEP 1
- Cut 1 end of each of the 6 main framing uprights (A) at an angle of 60 degrees.
- Measure 48 inches along the timber, mark a 30 degrees angle with the bevel and cut to length.
- Measure 1 inch across the top bevel of each upright, square a line down from this point to form a right angle and then cut off the triangular section.
STEP 2
- Screw together pairs of uprights to form A-frames.
- Cut both ends of the narrow and wide ties (B, B1) at an angle of 30 degrees (25 inches - 1x4s).
- Attach ties as crossbars about 20 inches from the bottom.
- Cut the 3 bottom rails (L) with a 30 degree angle at each end and screw to the bottom plates and each A-frames.
STEP 3
- Cut 1 gusset (D) (10 inches high) for the end frame and attach.
- Screw the top ridge (E) to the end frames. The plywood end panels face outward.
- Measure 16 inches from the end and screw on the intermediate A-frame with the plywood gussets facing towards the ends and the inside edge of the frames on the mark.
- Screw the outer A-frames to the bottom plates (F), then measure 16 inches from ends to locate the intermediate frames.
STEP 4
- Add the brooding box slats (J), screwing them to the top of the bottom rails (L) and spacing them equally between the sides. The gaps between the slats allow air to circulate.
STEP 5
- Use the A-frames as a template to mark out the end panels (C) and cut 2 with a panel saw. Attach 1 to end frame.
- Make chicken-sized openings in other and attach to internal frame.
- Add a perch (X) screwed to the bottom of the non-enclosed crossbar and to the enclosed crossbar with a corner bracket.
STEP 6
- Attach chicken wire to 1 side and the bottom.
- Attach the mesh end piece.
- Cut a piece of plywood 48 inches by the width of the nesting box and attach to the side of the box that won't have door.
- Add the two handles (I) to either side along the bottom.
STEP 7
- Frame the plywood door on the outside with 1x2s.
- Screw large mesh door framing together with metal pieces and then staple chicken wire inside.
- Fit the doors with the strap hinges, using hinge blocks (V) on the upper doors to give them clearance if necessary.
STEP 8
- Use waterproofer or paint on all plywood.
STEP 9
- Attach holders for 2x2 door supports.
- Cut 2x2 door supports into 2 48-inch pieces.
STEP 10
- Fit basic catches to the doors to secure them at night.
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